(The scenes described above are, of course, pre-pandemic, but one can’t but think that the nightlife of post-pandemic Madrid will be restored quickly to its natural nocturnal frenzy.) Perhaps, playwright Jacinto Benavente, a lifelong madrileño, often took part in this nightly saturnalia, if only to glean material for his prodigious theatrical output. All I can say is that it is not hard to admire a people so intent on enjoying life with their nightly patronage of the countless bars, restaurants, and clubs that blanket their city. I have no credible answer to that question. Six hours later, on certain streets of the city, travelers awoken early to catch morning planes sift past dozens of local revelers tottering homeward.
That is the hour when Madrid’s nightlife truly kicks in, tracing a diurnal pattern, perplexing to those of us lacking in Iberian DNA. But at about 10 p.m., the natives will start filtering in, and approaching midnight, the place will be humming with the noisy chatter of enthusiastic diners. In fact, if you arrive at a restaurant, say, at 9 p.m., you and your date will invariably find yourselves sitting alone in a silent, empty room. in any eatery in Madrid is a futile undertaking.
Experienced travelers know, though, that making dinner reservations at 7 or 8 p.m.
Where better to let off steam and celebrate the return of normality after a lonely year in lockdown? Since the journey across the Atlantic may leave you peckish, you might, upon your arrival, wish to slip out for an early dinner. When the current pandemic washes away, you might be tempted, as one of your first acts, to fly directly to Madrid to steep yourself into the energetic nightlife of that lively metropolis.
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